A Great Day In The Triana Neighborhood In Seville
We had exciting plans for the evening for a tapas and flamenco dance tour. We wanted to start our day where flamenco originated in the Triana neighborhood in Seville.
As we strolled the banks of the Guadalquivir River in Triana, we looked over on the Santa Cruz neighbourhood we toured the day before. And if we looked far down the river we just caught the edges of the Maria Luisa Park.
In Triana, we found quiet, beautiful streets. And we saw tile art everywhere. The local mercado reminded us of markets all over Europe. It was quite different from the modern mercado when we found when we came back across the Guadalquivir River.
A View Back Across The Guadalquivir River
The subway dropped us just on the other side of the Guadalquivir River at Plaza de Cuba. Along the water, we saw many of the places we visited as we toured the Santa Cruz neighbourhood.
The Gold Tower stood high on the other bank with the riverboats lined up in front of it. We saw both the Maestranza Theater and the bull ring along the river. High above the buildings we just made out the sculpted edges of the Seville Cathedral and the Tower of Giralda.
When we looked the other way, we saw the interesting contrast with modern buildings. If we looked far down the Guadalquivir River we saw the Maria Luisa Park we visited on our first day in Seville.
When we crossed the Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood in Seville, we got great views back to some of the main sights in the city.
Lunch With A View
We stopped at the Rio Grande Restaurant. The outdoor patio got busier as we sat and enjoyed the view of the water.
The plan was to have tapas for lunch. This menu offered half and full rations (“racions”). We assumed that the half rations were tapas sized. So we ordered three different dishes to try a selection of foods – seafood salad, asparagus with egg and typical croquettes. The dishes we got were huge and tasty.
Our lunch stop was a great way to fill us up for our visit to the Triana neighbourhood.
Walking In The Streets Of The Triana Neighborhood In Seville
After lunch, we wandered through Triana. We stopped in front of the Museo de Carruajes. Little did we know we missed a museum dedicated to the fascinating world of horse-drawn carriages. From there, we set off towards Pelay Correa. As soon as we saw the narrow streets with interesting architecture and building decor we were intrigued. The large squares were open with lots of outside seating.
The first church we stopped at was the Santa Ana Church. There were several tile “paintings” at strategic points around the church. The bell tower was decorated in tiles.
The next church we stopped at was the Capital de los Marinos. This was a simple white church with coloured trim set into a row of buildings. Despite its simplicity it was decorated with statues, tile work and design.
The last church we saw was very different from the other two. But it was again decorated with great tile work. And even without a church, we found beautiful religious artworks on the buildings.
We were charmed by our views of the Triana neighborhood in Seville.
The Balconies Of Triana
When we visited the Spanish island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands, we were intrigued with the balconies we found. As we wandered around Triana, we found balconies of all shapes and sizes. Some were closed and others were open and decorated with intricate ironwork. Balconies and rooftops were filled with flowers and colour.
A unique thing we found in this neighbourhood was the tiles on the bottom of shallow balconies. As we walked the streets our heads were cocked as we looked up the whole time.
We saw so many great balconies as we wandered in the Triana neighborhood in Seville. Our heads swivelled constantly to take in all the sights.
Tile Work On The Houses and Shops in Triana
Seville was famous for its azulejos (ceramic tiles) since Roman times. Triana was the home to Seville’s famous tile workshops and potteries. Most of the tile found in Seville’s churches was made in Triana. Even the tile we saw on our visit to Plaza de España.
So we were not surprised we found beautiful coloured tile work everywhere we walked in Triana. Store signs were fancy and tiled. Houses were colourful. And many had plaques that celebrated people who lived in the houses.
Several times we entered small entranceways and found beautiful tiled alcoves. We stopped at the Farmacia de Santa Ana (or Farmacia de Aurelio Murillo) and peeked at the tile murals in the store.
Our entire walk through the Triana neighborhood in Seville was a treat. There were artistic details in the tile work everywhere we walked. It reminded us a lot of the tile art we found as we explored the art and architecture of Porto, Portugal.
Mercados On Both Sides Of The River
We arrived at the Mercado de Triana late in the afternoon and much of the market was already shut down. But we wandered past the shops interested in what was available. Of course we saw more colourful tile work.
When we visited Madrid, we always looked for chocolate churros. In the market we found a pastry shop and had a great chocolate treat. The market was air conditioned and this was a great stop after our slow stroll through the Triana neighbourhood.
After we crossed back over the river, we found another market. The Mercado Lonja Del Barranco was still all open. It was such a contrast to the local market in Triana. This market was very upscale with mostly prepared foods and drinks.
Each little shop specialized in something – wine, paella, octopus, sangria or even Tex Mex food! The octopus reminded me of all the great octopus we found as we travelled through Portugal.
I got sidetracked when I saw the giant bottle of Aperol. When we spent 10 weeks in Italy I discovered my favourite orange cocktail the Aperol Spritz. I now knew where I could get my fix!
Cross The Guadalquivir River To The Triana Neighborhood in Seville
Many people never crossed the Guadalquivir River when they were in Seville. There was just so much to do in the main tourist sights. But when we crossed Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood in Seville, we found some delightful small streets as we wandered. We looked up and admired the tiles that were everywhere.
We wanted to start our day in the Triana area to see the area where flamenco took root. That evening we enjoyed a great tapas tour and flamenco show. It was great to have a better context for our night!
Did you cross the Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood in Seville? What was your favourite spot to admire tile work?
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