A Great Day In The Triana Neighborhood In Seville
We had exciting plans for the evening for a tapas and flamenco dance tour. We wanted to start our day where flamenco originated in the Triana neighborhood in Seville.
As we strolled the banks of the Guadalquivir River in Triana, we looked over on the Santa Cruz neighbourhood we toured the day before. And if we looked far down the river we just caught the edges of the Maria Luisa Park.
In Triana, we found quiet, beautiful streets. And we saw tile art everywhere. The local mercado reminded us of markets all over Europe. It was quite different from the modern mercado when we found when we came back across the Guadalquivir River.
A View Back Across The Guadalquivir River
The subway dropped us just on the other side of the Guadalquivir River at Plaza de Cuba. Along the water, we saw many of the places we visited as we toured the Santa Cruz neighbourhood.
The Gold Tower stood high on the other bank with the riverboats lined up in front of it. We saw both the Maestranza Theater and the bull ring along the river. High above the buildings we just made out the sculpted edges of the Seville Cathedral and the Tower of Giralda.
When we looked the other way, we saw the interesting contrast with modern buildings. If we looked far down the Guadalquivir River we saw the Maria Luisa Park we visited on our first day in Seville.
When we crossed the Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood in Seville, we got great views back to some of the main sights in the city.
Lunch With A View
We stopped at the Rio Grande Restaurant. The outdoor patio got busier as we sat and enjoyed the view of the water.
The plan was to have tapas for lunch. This menu offered half and full rations (“racions”). We assumed that the half rations were tapas sized. So we ordered three different dishes to try a selection of foods – seafood salad, asparagus with egg and typical croquettes. The dishes we got were huge and tasty.
Our lunch stop was a great way to fill us up for our visit to the Triana neighbourhood.
Walking In The Streets Of The Triana Neighborhood In Seville
After lunch, we wandered through Triana. We stopped in front of the Museo de Carruajes. Little did we know we missed a museum dedicated to the fascinating world of horse-drawn carriages. From there, we set off towards Pelay Correa. As soon as we saw the narrow streets with interesting architecture and building decor we were intrigued. The large squares were open with lots of outside seating.
The first church we stopped at was the Santa Ana Church. There were several tile “paintings” at strategic points around the church. The bell tower was decorated in tiles.
The next church we stopped at was the Capital de los Marinos. This was a simple white church with coloured trim set into a row of buildings. Despite its simplicity it was decorated with statues, tile work and design.
The last church we saw was very different from the other two. But it was again decorated with great tile work. And even without a church, we found beautiful religious artworks on the buildings.
We were charmed by our views of the Triana neighborhood in Seville.
The Balconies Of Triana
When we visited the Spanish island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands, we were intrigued with the balconies we found. As we wandered around Triana, we found balconies of all shapes and sizes. Some were closed and others were open and decorated with intricate ironwork. Balconies and rooftops were filled with flowers and colour.
A unique thing we found in this neighbourhood was the tiles on the bottom of shallow balconies. As we walked the streets our heads were cocked as we looked up the whole time.
We saw so many great balconies as we wandered in the Triana neighborhood in Seville. Our heads swivelled constantly to take in all the sights.
Tile Work On The Houses and Shops in Triana
Seville was famous for its azulejos (ceramic tiles) since Roman times. Triana was the home to Seville’s famous tile workshops and potteries. Most of the tile found in Seville’s churches was made in Triana. Even the tile we saw on our visit to Plaza de España.
So we were not surprised we found beautiful coloured tile work everywhere we walked in Triana. Store signs were fancy and tiled. Houses were colourful. And many had plaques that celebrated people who lived in the houses.
Several times we entered small entranceways and found beautiful tiled alcoves. We stopped at the Farmacia de Santa Ana (or Farmacia de Aurelio Murillo) and peeked at the tile murals in the store.
Our entire walk through the Triana neighborhood in Seville was a treat. There were artistic details in the tile work everywhere we walked. It reminded us a lot of the tile art we found as we explored the art and architecture of Porto, Portugal.
Mercados On Both Sides Of The River
We arrived at the Mercado de Triana late in the afternoon and much of the market was already shut down. But we wandered past the shops interested in what was available. Of course we saw more colourful tile work.
When we visited Madrid, we always looked for chocolate churros. In the market we found a pastry shop and had a great chocolate treat. The market was air conditioned and this was a great stop after our slow stroll through the Triana neighbourhood.
After we crossed back over the river, we found another market. The Mercado Lonja Del Barranco was still all open. It was such a contrast to the local market in Triana. This market was very upscale with mostly prepared foods and drinks.
Each little shop specialized in something – wine, paella, octopus, sangria or even Tex Mex food! The octopus reminded me of all the great octopus we found as we travelled through Portugal.
I got sidetracked when I saw the giant bottle of Aperol. When we spent 10 weeks in Italy I discovered my favourite orange cocktail the Aperol Spritz. I now knew where I could get my fix!
Cross The Guadalquivir River To The Triana Neighborhood in Seville
Many people never crossed the Guadalquivir River when they were in Seville. There was just so much to do in the main tourist sights. But when we crossed Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood in Seville, we found some delightful small streets as we wandered. We looked up and admired the tiles that were everywhere.
We wanted to start our day in the Triana area to see the area where flamenco took root. That evening we enjoyed a great tapas tour and flamenco show. It was great to have a better context for our night!
Did you cross the Guadalquivir River to the Triana neighborhood in Seville? What was your favourite spot to admire tile work?
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The architecture is amazing! Loved all of food, but the octopus was something I probably wouldn’t try. Everything else made my mouth water.
It was great to find such great food after walking in the Triana neighbourhood for hours.
The artwork in Seville is so detailed and intricate! What a beautiful, traditional and romantic looking city.
We were truly amazed at how beautiful the Triana area was. Everywhere we looked we found colour and art.
I love all the colors of Spain and the detail in the art and architecture that makes the whole country feel like a museum! Chocolate churros… I’ve never tried those but it sounds absolutely delightful! Also love your lunch spot with a view.
The Triana area was indeed a great spot to wander for food and art. Probably worth more than the partial day we had.
Such a beautiful place. The dining area looking over the Guadalquivir River looks dreamy!! I also love the unique architecture of the buildings. Lovely post about this place.
We were so glad we crossed the river and saw this lovely part of Seville. Definitely worth a day if you visit Seville.
We visited Seville and the beautiful Triana neighborhood many years ago, but I can still remember those iconic buildings. We walked for hours there admiring the beautiful architecture and colorful streets, but I don’t have much recollection of the the Guadalquivir River. There were two things in Seville that are still very much alive in my memory today: the smell of orange trees and the gorgeous Cathedral of Seville.
We went back and forth across the river a few times. And Triana was definitely worth a trip across to see those beautiful buildings. And it was indeed so cool to find oranges on the trees everywhere!
Looks amazing there! I have never been to that part of the Spain but I too was at Tenerife, and remember the balconies. I love all these colours in tiles and how decorative they are. Also the food in Spain is sooo good! I hope to get there soon again.
I hope you do get to Spain and visit Seville. Food and art are just part of the great reasons to visit.
I visited Seville for a week. Rich in history and old architecture, it is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. Triana neighborhood is an authentic quarter interlaced with tiny streets that are a pleasure to wander through. Your photos bring back a lot of good memories for me.
I am so glad to bring back memories of Seville and the beauty of the Triana neighbourhood.
That Rio Grande restaurant just looks like heaven and the architecture it just so stunning with so much detail.
We loved the chance to wander in the Triana neighbourhood in Seville.
I’ve been to Sevilla twice – but I’m afraid I’ve missed out on Triana – which looks truly sooo nice. Stupidly, we were in Sevilla in Summer when it must be about 300 degrees – it was hell. Therefore, we did not venture too much around. I’d like to go back for these amazing tiles – I’m actually very much into ceramic tiles and the ones on your pictures are outstandingly beautiful.
But I won’t go neither in July nor in August 😉
I hope you get back to Seville in off season and get to Triana. It was crazy hot in May so I can’t imagine the middle of summer. The tile work is definitely worth a trip across the river.
Triana is my favorite part of Seville when you can feel the spirit of true Andalusian. I was there often, especially during the famous Feria de Abril, the fiesta of flamenco, on April-May.
I am now sorry that I missed the flamenco festival. Tiana would have been the perfect spot to celebrate!
It looks so pretty. The buildings are beautifully coloured and no ugly high rises! The neighboruhood looks warm and friendly. And I have marked out the tapas tour and flamenco show, though did get a glimpse of both in India. However, the native shows are much more genuine and pleasing.
We did love our chance to explore the Triana area. It was beautiful everywhere we looked. We would definitely go back when we hit Seville again.
I love the colors and details. I actually haven’t spent much time in Seville or this area of Spain, but it’s coming to my attention that this would be my favorite place in Spain. Love the culture, history and colors. I can’t wait to visit some day again
I hope you do get to visit Seville and the Triana neighbourhood when you get to visit Spain. It was a lovely spot to wander for hours.
We were in Seville for just a day and saw the usual sights. Thank you for taking me on this walk through the Triana neighborhood. How beautiful!
I am happy to show you a part of Seville that many people miss on a short visit. It was a treat to explore.
The crossing reminded me of Bangkok but with different views of course. The architectures are amazing and the food you ordered look delicious as always. I will follow your itinerary when I get a chance to visit these places.
I hope you do get to visit the Triana area in Seville if you ever get there. We were delighted with our stroll through the area.
Oh my gosh i can’t wait to go back to Seville. Truly one of the most beautiful and delicious cities in the world.
We definitely have Spain high on our list too – for so many reasons.
Seville has such architectural wonders!! the food scene is very interesting too.. am sure I’ll try out the seafood ?
We loved our visit to Seville and our stroll through the Triana neighbourhood. Lots of tasty stops along the way.
Seville is easily my favorite city in Spain. I couldn’t get enough of the tile art, wrought iron and palaces. I didn’t spend enough time in Triana. I want to return for the Seville April Fair and will bookmark this for that visit.
I hope you get back to Seville in April. That would be a wonderful time to visit. Hope you love the Triana area too!
What a gorgeous place. I love all the time, balconies and that all your meals were outside. I need to explore more of Spain.
I hope you do get to visit Spain when things open up again. There were so many things to discover in Seville. Don’t miss a trip across the Guadaquivir River to see the Triana area.
I get your photo obsession with the tiles and balconies 🙂 They are amazing. I will, too, take millions of photos of them when I get to see Seville.
We were amazed with how much variety we found in the tiles and balconies in Triana. Worth a visit to just stroll and admire.
Those balconies!! Spain just knows how to make the most simple aspects of architecture into art. Walking neighborhoods, and eating our way along, is our favorite way to explore. And tapas are the perfect way to experience more dishes at once! Hopefully when we can travel again from Canada we will finally get to explore this area for ourselves, it is so picturesque.
We too hope we can get back to Spain when travel from Canada is possible. The Triana area was just one of the amazing gems we found in Seville.
Triana looks absolutely delightful, and exactly the kind of place I like to explore. And I love all the tile work! Gorgeous. Sounds like you had a lovely day there.
Alison
We sure did love our day wandering in Triana. Everywhere we looked there was another treat.
Great post! Thanks for these great travel information!
I am glad you enjoyed this post. Hopefully you can visit one day.
What an incredible itinerary you shared! I think I would love to explore to city as you’ve done. The details of the architecture are amazing- even on the terraces, the lovely iron gates and the azulejos tiles just as what you find in Portugal. I would love to explore more of Spain.
There is so much to see in Spain. Seville was a delight. And the Triana neighbourhood a beautiful spot to wander. Hope you get to visit one day.
I was so intrigued by the balconies too. I typically see the same type of architecture but these were so different. I especially have not seen one where it’s covered in glass. The ironwork is so beautiful too!
The balconies certainly were a big draw. And so many different styles. Triana was a lovely spot to visit in Seville.
The tiles are stunning and how unusual that the underside of the balconies are tiled for those who are looking up! I miss the tapas and foods of Spain. Will get back there again some day.
We are missing Spain too. In Triana, our necks hurt from so much looking up at the beautiful tile details. Hope you get to visit this area if you make it to Seville.
I loved Seville but probably as with most people, never made it over the river to Triana. It looks beautiful though! The tiles are amazing & especially the ones which make the underside of the balconies so impressive. I also like to browse around the markets when I am on trips & this one & the food you sampled look like I would enjoy the area a lot! Definitely one for my list when I return to Seville!
I hope you do get to cross the river to Triana if you get back to Seville. We would definitely return.
I haven’t been to Seville for many years, and know I didn’t go across to Triana. It looks so beautiful and tranquil. I love the painted tiles, a real feature of the area. I have added Seville and Triana to my list for places in Spain for my next visit.
We were delighted we crossed the river and visited the Triana area in Seville. So much to see as you wander. Hope you get to visit.
How cool that flamenco originated in this neighborhood and good of you two to do a flamenco dance tour. I would have enjoyed that lunch, too. Sharing several smaller plates is one of the best inventions of the Spaniards. Those tiles on the bottom of the balconies are very unique indeed, almost weird, but wonderful. Reading about you walking the streets with your heads cocked as you looked up the whole time made me laugh.
Remembering our walk through the Triana area of Seville made us smile too. We didn’t want to miss a thing and there was something to see everywhere. Good thing we found spots to stop and eat to take it all in!